Wednesday, June 26, 2013

Michael's Day by Day Impressions of Burkina Faso


I just had my first visitor stay with me for almost a month! These are his thoughts and experiences!

Day 1: Arriving in Ouaga, seeing the skies darken and an utter downpour commence then getting some precious pizza.

Day 2: Taking a camion (bush taxi) to village. Fortunately our camion was livestock free. At one point in the trip the camion broke down and the windshield wipers began moving on their own accord, which was dealt with by restraining them manually (the windshield wipers won) and lifting up the dashboard to twiddle with the rest of the wires there (which somehow worked). Also biking around Ouaga and almost dying a couple of times.

Day 3: Fish pasta, yum (yuck). Then dohlo, the local millet beer, more yum, then bunny slaughtering. Towards the end we didn't know what to do with the head and entrails, Katie suggested seeing if the neightbors want it. I brought it over and offered it to them. They took it and gave me back the pot completely empty. A man excitedly yelling, “I love you,” in a bad Burkinabe accent (he thought he was saying good afternoon).

Day 4: Formation in a smaller village and being treated like an honored guest simply because I am white, lots of photos. Playing some random hip banging game for woman with some random Burkinabe man who dragged me into it.

Day 5: Walking around in the sun and getting dehydrated then spending the afternoon in bed drinking Oral Re hydration Salts.

Day 6: Being offered wives, girlfriends, and fiances. A particularly unattractive and old Burkinabe woman missing several teeth telling me she would give me lots of babies.

Day 7: Big marche day, drinking dohlo, eating attieke with a large amount of rocks.

Day 8: Highway bandits stop and rob two buses (ten kilometers from Katie's site) one of which had a person who had gotten a lot of money digging gold individually. I fucking love Burkina.

Day 9: Sleeping outside lots, getting scared of the wind and running inside. Then being too hot to sleep because it is too hot inside. Weighing babies who peed and pooped everywhere. Working with kids, reading them stories in English (they do not even speak French) which they found utterly fascinating.

Day 10: Making tofu, dust and wind storm without rain. Lots of drinking, took three naps and guilt free.

Day 11: Went to Mane for a crazy marche day with so much stuff (in comparison to Katie's marche). Being abandoned for one and a half hours at a dohlo stand with Burkinabe who gesticulated at me lots. Drink three liters of dohlo. Lots of meetings. Having to ride on the back of a motorcycle while carrying my bike after getting a flat and feeling like I was going to die the entire way.

Day 12: Played with kids, threw a whistle ball. Met with lots of little chiefs but not 'the chief'.

Day 13: More tofu making and a pretend rain storm getting some sweet Burkinabe tailored pants.

Day 14: Quick trip to Ouaga, walking around the Grand Marche and then a long ass ride in a cramped bush taxi, that stopped for an hour (while still in Ouaga) because they didn't have enough money for gas.

Day 15: Travelling to Banzon alone and somehow not getting lost / killed even though I speak absolutely no French. Waiting for half an hour in a taxi while the driver argued with a gendarme (military) because he was parked illegally. Then riding in a bus that looks like it shouldn't be able to roll and having to get out to cross a stream to make sure the bus wouldn't fall over. Finally, meeting Tyler and spending a night in paradise.

Day 16: Thinking that I am in China with rice paddies. Seeing four hippos in the wild and eating mangoes straight off the tree. Meeting the Burkinabe Jack Sparrow.

Day 17: Having to run to not miss my bus, catching up on e-mails, eating tasteless fried things, drinking with Peace Corps volunteers and eating porc au four.

Day 18: More email and waiting a long time for an expensive dinner (as in nine dollars). Actually being able to use a toilet and a shower = winning

Day 19: Listening to a long repetitive argument with a jeweler, buying a daba (tool of all trades) partying with Peace Corps (which entailed drinking and getting a lap dance). Then going to a dance hall where you can only dance with yourself whilst looking a mirror. Stumbling back to bed and being woken up at 5am because the bus was supposed to leave at 4:30am. The bush taxi's early start was all for naught as we waited for two hours while a gruesome truck crash was cleared, walking to the bus right as the sky began to downpour. Then enjoying a nicely cramped ten hour drive back to Ouaga. Getting pizza again that tasted so much better after a couple of weeks in Burkina.

Day 21: Chillin' at the Peace Corps bureau, then getting Lebanese food at a swanky Burkinabe restaurant. Being accosted by a kid high on rubber cement who was asking for money then getting ice cream at a place that had way too many options.

Day 22: Heading back to Silmidougou on a uneventful bush taxi ride. Being greeted by people who actually knew me and speaking Moore which was nice. Then hunkering down for a rather impressive dust storm.

Day 23: Eating tasty millet and beans, playing with kids then listening to Katie talk to a chief. Then coming back and making our normal: macaroni with nido sauce.

Day 24: Heading back to Mane to get a wonderful t-shirt and complet, playing with kids and waiting for a chief for a while.

Day 25: Marche day and last day in village. Tofu and dohlo and putting up with drunk children (got to love Burkinabe parenting) seeing a pig strapped to the back of a bike and waiting all afternoon again for a chief. Then getting a kick ass boubou.

Day 26: Traveling to Ouaga solo, being overwhelmed by the artisan village and buying some Burkinabe crafts. Biking to a great interview and chilling at the transit house.

Day 27: Kaya, staying at a wonderful auberge run by orphans with air conditioning!! Drinking Nigerian Guiness (not bad) and and bad raisin wine and then going to a very legitimate club to look for Burkinabe dancing with themselves in the mirrors (but alas we were too early in the night). Getting lost in the marche and looking at lots of pagnes.

Day 28: More marche strolling and a final pizza dinner in Ouaga.

Day 29: Last day in Burkina! Having to leave to the airport ridiculously early to make sure I am on the flight.  

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